Flat Sawn
Quarter Sawn
End Grain
General Information:
Staghorn sumac is the largest of the sumacs, which are typically considered to be shrubs. These trees are capable of growing to approximately 12" in diameter, so they are rarely commercially harvested, making the wood very difficult to obtain on a regular basis. This wood does not contain urushiol, the resin which produces skin irritations from this tree's cousin, poison sumac.
Common Name(s):
American sumac, hairy sumac, Virginia sumac, velvet sumac, vinegar tree
Color:
Intermixed streaks of black, yellowish-green, dark green, dark brown and yellow
Density:
25 lbs/ft3 (lightweight) - Similar to basswood or eastern red cedar
Hardness:
680 lbft (moderately soft) - Similar to sycamore
Specific Gravity:
0.47
Turning Properties:
Turns wonderfully. Cuts with little to no end grain tearout.
Drying Properties:
Little tendency to warp, check or crack. Dries quite quickly compared to other hardwoods, as it contains a much lower initial moisture content.
Sanding Properties:
Sands very quickly. Heavy grits (below 120) are not typically needed even if heavy tool marks remain in the wood. Can be sanded to a naturally high luster.
Finishing Properties:
Accepts nearly any finish, and staining is not necessary.. Oil and wax finishes typically produce a high shine. Water, alcohol and oil based finishes will all adhere well to this wood.
Toxicity
This wood does not contain the urushoils that poison sumac is known for. It can, however, produce very mild skin irritations in persons with sensitive skin.
Reducing Drying Defects in Bowls & Platters
Let's face it - turning green wood is a pleasant experience, but drying can sometimes be difficult. While success can't always be guaranteed, here are some ways to put the odds in your favor:
Perform all rough turning at on time
A mistake many people make is to rough out one side of a bowl or platter, then come back later to finish turning the other side. While sometimes this may appear to work without small checks or cracks appearing on the already cut surface, they will almost inevitably started to form (even if not visible). These microscopic checks will often remain closed until the roughed out forms are almost fully dried, at which point they will quickly become larger cracks. If for any reason a piece must be left on the lathe before fully being roughed out, try taking a plastic draw string trash bag and placing it over the unfinished piece until you can get back to finish it up.
Some woods must dry more slowly
Denser woods, such as oaks, pecan, hickory, birch and black walnut require slower drying rates (and therefore more drying time) to reduce the chances of defects occurring. Woods with a very low initial moisture content (typically cedars) must also be dried more slowly to reduce the chances of checking. If using a paper bag to enclose a piece that is drying, adding a second or third bag around the first will reduce the drying rate. The addition of shavings from the freshly turned piece into the bag can also help to slow the drying rate even more if necessary.
Wider pieces need special attention
Pieces beyond 12" in diameter can often cup or twist more than smaller pieces, which reduces the eventual size of the finished product. This is especially evident in platters where the rim can sometimes raise significantly, making the final turning much more difficult. To combat this problem, these pieces should be dried more slowly, particularly when the piece is within the last few weeks of its drying cycle. Consider adding additional bags (or layers of kraft paper) to slow down the drying process. This will help to control warpage and help you get the most out of your wood!
Pay attention to wall thickness
Having an uneven wall thickness in roughed out bowls or platters creates conditions which will cause uneven drying to occur. As thinner parts dry more quickly, the thicker surrounding areas will not be able to dry at the same rate, causing stress between these areas of wood. Pay special attention to the transition areas between the rim and bottoms of pieces, as this is usually one of the more problematic areas.
Pay attention to wall shape
Our final tip this month is concerning the shape of walls, particularly in bowls. The best shape is a smoothly flowing curve from rim to base. The worst possible shape, however, is a 90 degree corner. In shallower pieces (3" thick and less) the likelihood of problems occurring is somewhat low. In deeper pieces (greater than 3" thick), however, the probability of cracking is greatly magnified. If a 90 degree corner in the bottom of your piece is desired, though, try reducing the thickness of the bottom of your piece to increase your chances of success.
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- Business updates
- Recently added woods and schedule of upcoming woods
- Photo of the month contest results
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